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A LEGACY

An Ode to Valentino Garavani and the House’s Latest Couture Chapter

Written By: Priyanka Bimal

 Michele did not attempt reinvention for shock value. Instead, he chose reverence.

Valentino will live on. The words feel inevitable, almost ceremonial. ‘The last great emperor’ passed just days ago, yet his presence still lingers—stitched into silk, embroidered in memory, and echoed across candlelit cathedrals and couture salons alike. Only five days before Paris bore witness to the House of Valentino’s latest haute couture presentation, Valentino Garavani’s clients, muses, and peers gathered in Rome dressed in his designs to farewell a man who defined modern glamour. It was not an ending, but a passage.

On Wednesday evening in Paris, Alessandro Michele, the new custodian of the 66-year-old house, paid tribute in the language Valentino himself perfected: spectacle, romance, and red-carpet fantasy. 

Alessandro Michele’s couture debut leaned fully into this truth. Rather than chasing minimalism or conceptual austerity, he returned the house to its emotional core. This was couture as theatre—designed not for anonymity, but for the world’s gaze. It was a reminder that Valentino couture has always existed in dialogue with fantasy, fame, and femininity.

While haute couture exists in rarefied spaces, Valentino Garavani always understood the importance of accessories in shaping a complete world. That legacy continues. The house’s accessories, particularly Valentino women's handbags, remain integral to its identity, bridging couture fantasy with everyday luxury.

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Michele’s references were layered and intellectual, yet poetic rather than academic. He quoted sociologist Walter Benjamin and recreated the Kaiserpanorama—a cylindrical, 19th-century viewing structure where audiences peered through small apertures to watch moving images. In essence, a historical peep show.

All 60 couture looks were revealed through tiny square windows, forcing viewers to lean in, to observe slowly, intimately. Though the format referenced early cinema, the couture itself evoked the golden age of Hollywood—a period Valentino Garavani himself often spoke about with reverence.

From the very first glance, the house’s signature spoke loudly. A drop-waisted gown in classic Valentino Red set the tone—unmistakable, dramatic, and emotionally charged. Valentino Red is not merely a colour; it is an identity, one that Michele handled with care and confidence.

Throughout the collection, red appeared as silk, velvet, sequins, and embroidery—never repetitive, always commanding. Elizabethan collars glittered under light, framing faces like living portraits. Feathers and headpieces nodded to showgirl extravagance, while sculpted gowns hugged the body with intention rather than restraint.

This was Valentino for women who do not shrink themselves. Women who understand that glamour is not frivolous—it is power.

In true Michele fashion, opulence was not edited out; it was embraced. Sequins, crystals, jewels, and heavy embroidery adorned garments that remained surprisingly disciplined in silhouette. Dresses stayed close to the body, sculpted with precise pleats and controlled draping before being lavished with surface embellishment.

Couture That Lives Beyond the Runway

What made this couture chapter particularly resonant was its emotional clarity. Michele did not attempt to overwrite Valentino Garavani’s voice; he amplified it. Old Hollywood glamour was not treated as costume, but as an attitude—one rooted in confidence, ceremony, and reverence for craft.

There was no irony here, no distancing from beauty. Instead, there was sincerity. A belief that women still desire gowns that move rooms, that couture can still feel aspirational without apology.

The collection acknowledged the weight of loss while refusing to dwell in mourning. It chose celebration over silence.

Valentino Garavani built an empire on elegance, intuition, and an unwavering belief in beauty. Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture collection for the house does not attempt to replace that legacy—it bows to it. Through theory, theatre, and unapologetic glamour, he reminds us why Valentino matters.

This is not an ending. It is a continuation. An ode, yes—but also a promise. Couture lives on, and so does the spirit of Valentino Garavani.

Written By: Priyanka Bimal